Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by non-uniform bathymetry. (English) Zbl 1309.76039
Summary: We show experimental evidence that as relatively long unidirectional waves propagate over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain, there can be a local maximum of kurtosis and skewness close to the shallower side of the slope. We also show evidence that the probability of large wave envelope has a local maximum near the shallower side of the slope. We therefore anticipate that the probability of freak waves can have a local maximum near the shallower side of a slope for relatively long unidirectional waves.{
©2012 American Institute of Physics}
©2012 American Institute of Physics}
MSC:
| 76B15 | Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction |
| 76-05 | Experimental work for problems pertaining to fluid mechanics |
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