Cerro Madsen - Laguna Sucia - Loma de las Pizarras
near El Chaltén, Santa Cruz (Argentina)
Viewed 19281 times, downloaded 584 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
The way that I followed to reach Laguna Olvidada is arguably not the simplest one, since it unnecessarily reaches the col below the Techado Negro, and then needs to traverse what I called "Little Red Summit", in front of what I suppose to be Cerro Ñire, needing then the unclimbing of steep and not very stable rocks, followed by a steep snow coulouir. With sufficient attention, however, the whole can be achieved.
The next step would be to search a more direct approach to Laguna Olvidada, probably leaving the shore of Laguna Sucia very early after the ford.
Detailed description:
Afternoon start from my hostel in El Chaltén. Walk to Poincenot, taking some photos at the classical spots: Mirador Río de Las Vueltas, Mirador Fitz Roy, Laguna Capri. From Poincenot I make an evening recognition until Rio Blanco, such to have no problems then in following in the darkness.
The day after, I wake up in the night, in order to be at the Miradores for dawn. Long photographic stay, since the weather is moderately cloudy, which accounts for dramatic and spectacular light changes.
When I am satisfied with photos I start to climb Cerro Madsen. I do not understand why such an easy and close summit is not considered a must by the trekkers coming here. I ascent the (moderately) hard way, following the upper stretch of the ridge rising from the Laguna de los Tres. This way I am rewarded by deep views on the turquoise waters. Long photographic stay on the Cerro Madsen, especially on the uncomfortable big summit stone, whose ascent is mandatory if one wants to shoot a 360° panorama. Later, much later, I go on to the last big rock dominating the col in direction Fitzroy. I call this the Cerro Madsen Avanzado.
Next, I descend the mountain traversing obliquely the summit snowfield rather than unclimbing the ridge. Descent to Río Blanco and Poincenot.
The second day I go to the Laguna Sucia, with the intention to attempt a traverse to a little lake that I spotted from Cerro Madsen, little below the Lomo de las Pizarras. I will call this lake Laguna Desconocida, or Olvidada, being not able to locate a name for it anywhere. Consider also that is does not exist either on Google Maps on on any printed map. In the satellite image, however, you see it covered by snow.
After having forded the river at its very exit from the lake, I follow the south shore of Laguna Sucia for approximately 3/4 of its length. I find some cairns on the way. At a certain point I begin to ascend the slope following the steepest gradient. There is scree, but it is not loose since there is also a lot of vegetation and also solid rock. I climb a little step on the side of a likewise little waterfall. Now I cannot continue straight in direction Mojon Rojo, since in short I would enter the glacier. Instead, I turn a bit left, entering a little lonesome valley at the foot of the Techado Negro. Before reaching the watershed where I would be right over the Mirador Maestri, I turn right ascending what I call "Little Red Summit", nothing more than a prominent big block on a ridge which would lead to a steep red rock pyramid, whose ascent seems very dangerous in view of the quality of the rock.
But Little Red for me is enough, since a couloir appears, leading down straight to Laguna Olvidada. The first 50 m to unclimb are both steep and delicate. Maximum caution is needed. Even more caution is needed in the following snow couloir, since I do not have any snow gear. Luckily I can exit very early to the rocks on the East side, and on that terrain it is easy to reach the laguna. I unfold the sleeping bag few metres above its NE corner, since the night seems to be wind-free.
The following morning I witness a spectacular "enrosadira" (to use Dolomitic terms) on the Fitzroy, a memorable experience. I climb some rocks in the vicinity, such to reach a sufficient height to have also the Cerro Torre in sight, but with the intention to return down, in order to take further photos of the perfect reflections in the laguna.
When I have packed enough photos, I climb the short scree slope to the Loma del las Pizarras. The unknowns are now over, since the trekking summit is already in sight, and from there a safe ridge should lead me to El Chaltén.
After a short little scree summit, I reach what I call the angular summit, both theoretically and practically one of the best viewpoints of the region. From there I k=make the mistake to follow integrally the rocky ridge, but some gendarmes would require rappels, so I have to go back a little bit and lean on the W side. From the touristic summit I follow the long, panoramic and extremely pleasant ridge. At a certain point, to avoid a foresummit which looks out unpleasant I lean on the SW slopes. Now I see on the map that that foresummit is marked Mirador...
There is still some way to reach the wood and, immediately after, the well trodden path connecting Valle Torre to the lagunas Madre and Hija. From there on, I simply follow the path all the way to El Chaltén.
Waypoints
Mirador Vueltas
Classical viewpoint on Río de las Vueltas, not far from the village.
Cerro Madsen Avanzado
This is the way I named the last prominent rock in front of the Fitzroy. it is difficult to judge if panoramically it is better than the main summit. If is surely worth a visit, however. Only beware the unsafe scree in the connecting couloir.
Campamento Poincenot
Very full of people. Also known for being infested by rats; hanging the food, however, I did not experience any problem.
Rocky spot
A tricky narrow spot on the way to Laguna Sucia. Minimal climbing skills required.
Laguna Sucia
One of the world's most spectacular lakes, I think. No longer "sucia", that is dirty, since the glacier does not reach the water any more.
Little Red Summit
Highest point of the track! Here for the first time you see down Laguna Olvidada.
Laguna Olvidada
This is the name invented by me for this little lake that is not to be found on maps.
Morning viewpoint
Climb a bit the rocks on the side, and you will see also the Cerro Torre!
Bivac place
Be careful that there is no cave or shelter here. A windless and starry night is needed!
Loma, first summit
Just a few metres of scree above the col which is first reached when coming from the laguna below.
Loma, touristic summit
What I suppose to be the touristic summit. I met two people here.
Ridge detour
I do not know while I curved rightwards at the point. Probably this way I missed the classical viewpoint for those who does not want to reach the summit.
Junction with path to Madre and Hija
Little below the limit of the wood, which in this stretch is very beautiful.
Mirador Torre
The first viewpoint coming from El Chaltén.
Comments (23)
You can add a comment or review this trail
Increíble ruta! Espero hacerla este enero, o almenos subir al Cerro Madsen.
Llevabas la mochila con todas tus cosas o dejaste algo en El Chaltén? Cuanto te pesaba aproximadamente?
Gracias.
Non mucho!
http://bit.ly/2QNNDWy
Otras cosas estaban en Chaltén, con la bicicleta.
Lindo recorrido!! Se necesita equipo de escalda o es todo trekking??
No, no hay escalada!
Hey Alberto, thanks for making this track available, excellent review, thank you so much for the details.I have some questions if you don't mind answering.
1. Is it possible to do this trekking entirely walking? Im gonna need to use rock climbing technics? do I need ropes or other climbing equipments?
2. Do you recomend any snow equipment? crampons maybe?
3. Is it "safe" to let my gear in Poincenot to climb Cerro Madsen? what do you recommend?
4. Are there other camping spots where I could pitch my tent more hidden? I don't like common camping areas, I prefer to set my tent where there are nobody around.
5. The place where you bivac, is it possible to set a 2 person tent? My tent is a freestanding model.
Please e-mail me if you have any other info or tip you wanted to share. petercornetet@gmail.com
Hi
Is this trail suitable for beginners?
Is it a marked trail or something that you walk by your own?
Thanks
Tal
Tal235:
No, of course the trail is not marked.
Also not for beginners, I would say.
Peter Gabriel:
1) There is only one stretch of rock down what I named "Little red summit". You end in a snowy couloir, perhaps the most tricky spot of the tour. Please look at the photos to judge if you consider the rock suited to you;
2) indeed, crampons would be necessary in the case of hard snow. I did not have crampons, whence I would have been stopped by hard snow and/or ice. Of course on this kind of terrain you cannot compare one year with the other;
3) I think that leaving something at Poincenot is considered normal; of course do not leave too precious gear!
4) camping outside the marked areas is officially forbidden. In case, you need to hide carefully, unless you are not far on the mountain;
5) If you mean the bivac on the shore of the lake, consider that the space does not lack, although the terrain is everywhere stony: forget a flat, grassy area!
Ótimo relato, bastante desafiador, parece bem exigente mesmo sem trechos de escalda.
Eu e mais 2 amigos fizemos por outro caminho, por uma bifurcação no bosque que leva à Laguna Hija. Subindo pela crista, um caminho de pedras soltas com bastante totens de orientação. Chega-se a um topo com lascas de pedras pretas, trecho bem instável e como já eram 15 horas, tivemos que voltar pois o cume ainda estava muito longe, ficaria tarde para voltar. estávamos sem GPS.
Ficará para uma próxima, que seja logo!
OK, per la prossima volta!
oi alberto. parabéns pelo track. Um dos melhores. Estou planejando ir pra lá e gostaria de fazer um "ataque" até a laguna sucia, depois voltando para o camping poicenot. Gostaria de saber se o caminho do camping até a laguna é muito difícil? Da para fazer sem equipamento de escalada?
No dificil! OK sem equipamento.
Alberto.
Thank you for the info, can you please tell me if you need climbing gear to reach loma de las Pizarras?
me encantaron tus fotos! tengo pensado hacer loma de las pizarras, es posible llegar a lo mas alto desde el valle del cerro torre (o sea, comenzando la subida desde el sur) muchas gracias!!!
No problems and no gear at all to climb the mountain from the Torre valley!
Alberto quiero subir al cerro madsen, necesito piqueta o crampones? O solo con equipo de trekking llego?
No, no necesitas...
Pero pregunta si hay mucha nieve
Hola como estas? hermosas fotos sacaste, felicidades. Te quería consultar para el cerro Madsen , te acordas cuanta pendiente tenias en la cresta y cuanta en el camino alternativo q tomaste para la vuelta? quiero hacerlo ahora en diciembre, y por lo q entiendo hay mucho acarreo de piedras grandes, en el camino alternativo también?
excelente!!!! muy buena la descripción y ni hablar las fotos, una consulta, avisaste a parques antes? te pidieron algo en especial si lo hiciste? gracias.
Mariela Cespedes: the ridge above the Laguna de los Tres has indeed some big stones, but no difficulty, and it is probably safer in case of snow. Of course, if the terrain is not slippery, and you do not have panoramic purposes, you can go more comfortably the other way!
gustavoalgomez: I registered only for the Vuelta al Huemul. For the other tours I simply went, and nobody asked me anything.
Hola, se puede armar una carpa en la Loma de las Pizarras?
Hola Alberto, en 15 dias me voy con 3 amigos montañistas a Chalten y vamos a intentar hacer esta ruta. Muchas gracias por toda la data!
Si alguno mas la hizo en este tiempo, que avise a ver como le fue! Graciass
¿Estás bien Alberto? Tengo la intención de hacer este sendero en noviembre o diciembre de este año, ¿cuál sería la mejor época para hacerlo? ¿Se requiere algún tipo de permiso para subir al Cerro Cerro Madsen?
No permit required for Cerro Madsen!