Review: Guelaguetza

Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
The vibrant colors, sounds, and scents of Oaxaca come to life upon walking into Guelaguetza. On any given night, banda musicians will be strumming their instruments while you sip on lesser-known mezcals from the region alongside a mixed bag of Angelenos, including locals longing for an authentic taste of their mother country. From the outside, you might mistake Guelaguetza, which retrofitted a freestanding Chinese pagoda structure into a Oaxacan institution, for any number of Gringo-style Mexican restaurants on charmless boulevards serving obscenely large portions of nachos/enchiladas/burritos rendered interchangeable blanketed under molten cheddar. Of course, you'd be wrong. Instead, what you get from this James Beard Classics-award-winner is some of the most authentic memelas, tlayudas, and moles outside of Oaxaca. The space itself, which is filled with families and live music and a riot of pinks, turquoises and yellows, will make you forget you're on Olympic Boulevard.

What was the crowd like?
It's a lively crowd that bursts into cheers, laughter, and heck, even dancing. If you crave the pulsing energy of Mexico, this is the spot to sate it.

What should we be drinking?
Try a flight of the smoky, heady mezcals to familiarize yourself with the famed Oaxacan spirit. Or, if you're in the mood for a cocktail, the micheladas here are unparalleled.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
The black mole is absolutely life changing and the chilaquiles are an absolute-must order for any first timer. Another Oaxacan specialty are the tlayudas—essentially a Mexican pizza—made by piling pork rind paste, black bean paste, queso fresco, cabbage with your choice choice of tasajo, cecina, chorizo, or Oaxaca cheese on top of a crispy tortilla. Also go for an order of chapulines (fried grasshoppers). Don't be squeamish; it tastes like a super savory, ultra crackly crouton dipped in lime.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Service is speedy and personal, and, in case it's been a minute since you've taken your high school Spanish, the staff are happy to help you navigate the menu.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
This is a great meal to enjoy with family and friends, especially for a celebratory occasion where you don't want to spend your entire rent check.