Kerguelen Islands

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Kerguelen (France)
Îles Kerguelen

Basic data
Administrative status:	district
Country:	French Southern and Antarctic Lands
Capital:	Port-aux-Français
Population:	Winter: ca. 70, Summer: ca. 110
Official language:	French
Coordinates:	49°20′S 69°20′E / 49.333°S 69.333°E / -49.333; 69.333 (Kerguelen Islands)
Area:	7,215 km²
Coastline:	2,800 km
highest peak:	Mont Ross (1,850 m)
longest Fjord:	Baie de Recques (21 km)
largest lake:	Lac Marville (25 km²)
largest islands:	Île Kerguelen / Grande Terre (6,675 km²)
largest glacier:	Cook-Gletscher Cook Glacier/ Calotte Glaciaire Cook (500 km²)
discovery:	12 February 1772, by Yves-Joseph de Kerguelen-Trémarec
Homepage:	www.taaf.fr

The Kerguelen Islands or the Kerguelen Archipelago (French: commonly Îles Kerguelen or Archipel de Kerguelen but officially Archipel des Kerguelen or Archipel Kerguelen), also known as Desolation Island, is a group of islands in the southern Indian Ocean. It is a territory of France.

The Kerguelen Islands are located at 49°15′S 69°35′E / 49.250°S 69.583°E / -49.250; 69.583 (Kerguelen Islands), which is antipodal to the area where Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Montana meet in North America. The main island, Grande Terre, is 6,675 km² and it is surrounded by another 300 smaller islands and islets, forming an archipelago of 7,215 km². The climate is raw and chilly but not severely cold throughout the year — much like that of the outer Aleutian Islands of Alaska — with frequent high winds; and while the surrounding seas are generally rough, they remain free of ice year-round.

In English, "Kerguelen" is pronounced ['kə:gɪlɪn], ['kɚgələn], etc.

The islands are one of five districts in the French Southern and Antarctic Lands and were discovered by Yves-Joseph de Kerguelen-Trémarec in February 1772.

The archipelago was exploited for its seal population until their destruction, including fur seals in the 18th century and elephant seals in the 19th century. A number of expeditions have briefly visited the islands, including that of James Cook in 1776.

During Christmas 1940, the German auxiliary cruiser Atlantis was at Kerguelen Island. During their stay the complement performed maintenance and replenished their water supplies. The ship's first fatality of the war came when a sailor fell while painting the funnel. He was buried in what is sometimes referred to as "the most southerly German soldier's grave".

Kerguelen has been used by a small number of science teams since 1949, with a population of fifty to one hundred always present. There is also a satellite tracking station. The main island is home to a well-established feral cat population descended from ships' cats. They survive on sea birds and non-indigenous rabbits introduced to the islands. The islands are also known for the indigenous, edible Kerguelen cabbage.

The main base, the "capital" of the district, is located at the eastern end of the Golfe du Morbihan on Grande Terre at 49°21′S 70°13′E / 49.350°S 70.217°E / -49.350; 70.217 (Port-aux-Français) and is known as Port-aux-Français. Facilities include a bar, gym, hospital, library, and the chapel of Notre-Dame des Vents.

In 2000, one of the over-winterers was shot and killed in a tragic accident, an event written about by British journalist, Matthew Parris, during a stay while writing a column on the islands. ^[1]

The main island of this archipelago is called La Grande Terre, it measures ~150 km from east to west and ~120 km from north to south. The highest point is the Galliéni Massif (Pic du Grand-Ross), which is along the southern coast of the island and has an elevation of 1850 m. Towards the central western part of the island can be found another important feature, The Cook Glacier wich covers approximately 550 square kilometres. The island has numerous bay, inlets, fjords, and coves, not to mention several important peninsula and promontories. The most important ones are listed below and indicated on the map by numbers:

1. Courbet Peninsula
2. Péninsule Rallier du Baty
3. Péninsule Gallieni
4. Péninsule Loranchet
5. Presqu'île Jeanne d'Arc
6. Presqu'île Ronarc'h
7. Presqu'île de la Société de Géographie
8. Presqu'île Joffre
9. Presqu'île du Prince de Galles
10. Presqu'île du Gauss
11. Presqu'île Bouquet de la Grye
12. Presqu'île d'Entrecasteaux
13. Presqu'île du Bougainville
14. Presqu'île Hoche

There are also a number of historic localities, all on Grande Terre (see also the main map):

• Anse Betsy (historic geomagnetic station at 49°10′S 70°13′E / 49.167°S 70.217°E / -49.167; 70.217 (Anse Betsy)), on Baie Accessible, on the north coast of Péninsule Courbet. At this site, an astronomic and geomagnetic observatory was erected on October 26, 1874 by a German research expedition led by Georg Gustav Freiherr von Schleinitz.
• Armor (Base Armor)
• Baie de l'Observatoire (historic geomagnetic station at 49°21′S 70°12′E / 49.350°S 70.200°E / -49.350; 70.200 (Baie de l'Observatoire)), just west of Port-Aux-Français, also at the south coast of the Courbet Peninsula, northern shore of Golfe du Morbihan. A station was erected at this site by the German Antarctic Expedition led by Erich Dagobert von Drygalski (1902 to 1903).
• Cabane Port-Raymond (scientific camp at 49°20′S 69°49′E / 49.333°S 69.817°E / -49.333; 69.817 (Cabane Port-Raymond)), at the head of a fjord cutting off Courbet Peninsula from the south
• Cap Ratmanoff (geomagnetic station at 49°14′S 70°34′E / 49.233°S 70.567°E / -49.233; 70.567 (Cap Ratmanoff), the easternmost point of Kerguelen)
• La Montjoie (scientific camp at 48°59′S 68°50′E / 48.983°S 68.833°E / -48.983; 68.833 (La Montjoie)), on the south of Baie Rocheuse, northern west coast
• Molloy (Pointe Molloy), former observatory 10 km west of later Port-Aux-Français, at the south coast of the Courbet Peninsula, northern shore of Golfe du Morbihan. An American expedition led by G. P. Ryan erected a station at this site on September 7, 1874.
• Port Bizet (seismographic station at 49°31′12″S 69°54′36″E / 49.52000°S 69.91000°E / -49.52000; 69.91000 (Port Bizet)), on the north coast of Île Longue)
• Port Christmas (historic geomagnetic station at 48°41′S 69°03′E / 48.683°S 69.050°E / -48.683; 69.050 (Port Christmas)), on Baie de l'Oiseau, Péninsule Loranchet, extreme northwest. The place was named by James Cook, who discovered the islands and who anchored there on Christmas Day, 1776.
• Port Couvreux (formerly a whaling station, an experimental sheep farm and a geomagnetic station, at 49°17′S 69°42′E / 49.283°S 69.700°E / -49.283; 69.700 (Port Couvreux)), on Baie du Hillsborough, on the southeast coast of Presqu'île Bouquet de la Grye. From 1912 sheep were bred to create an economic basis for settlement, but the attempt had to be abandoned in 1931.
• Port Curieuse (harbor on the West coast at 49°22′S 68°48′E / 49.367°S 68.800°E / -49.367; 68.800 (Port Curieuse)), on the west coast across Île du l'Ouest. The site was named after ship Curieuse used by Raymond Rallier du Baty on his second visit the islands in 1913 to 1914.
• Port Douzième (literally Twelfth Port, hut and geomagnetic station at 49°31′S 70°09′E / 49.517°S 70.150°E / -49.517; 70.150 (Port Douzième)), on the north coast of Presqu'île Ronarch, southern shore of Golfe du Morbihan
• Port Jeanne d'Arc (former whaling station founded by Norwegian whalers in 1908, and historic geomagnetic station at 49°33′S 69°49′E / 49.550°S 69.817°E / -49.550; 69.817 (Port Douzième)), in the northwestern corner of Presqu'île Jeanne d'Arc, looking across Passe de Buenos Aires to Île Longue (4 km northeast). The derelict settlement consists of four residential buildings with wooden walls and tin roofs and a barn. One of the buildings was restored in 1977.

Since 1963, 49°22′S 70°14′E / 49.367°S 70.233°E / -49.367; 70.233 (Rocket launch site) just east of Port-aux-Français is a launch site for sounding rockets (mainly Arcas, Dragon and Eridan).

Following is a list of the most important of the satellite islands:

• Île Foch in the north is the largest, with an area of 206.2 km². The highest point is 687 m at Pyramide Mexicaine.
• Île Saint-Lanne Gramont, also in the north, is the second largest, with an area of 45.8 km². It is 480 m at the highest point and is located at 48°55′S 69°12′E / 48.917°S 69.200°E / -48.917; 69.200 (Île Saint-Lanne Gramont)).
• Île du Port, also in the north in the Golfe des Baliniers, is the third largest with an area of 43.0 km², with a highest altitude of 340 m.
• Île de l'Ouest (west, about 40 km²)
• Île Longue (southeast, about 40 km² 49°32′S 69°54′E / 49.533°S 69.900°E / -49.533; 69.900 (Île Longue))
• Îles Nuageuses (northwest)
• Île de Castries 48°41′S 69°29′E / 48.683°S 69.483°E / -48.683; 69.483 (Île de Castries)
• Île Leygues (north)
• Île Howe (north) 48°50′S 69°25′E / 48.833°S 69.417°E / -48.833; 69.417 (Île Howe)
• Île Violette 49°07′S 69°40′E / 49.117°S 69.667°E / -49.117; 69.667 (Île Violette)
• Île aux Rennes (southeast, area 36.7 km², altitude 199 m,)

The main activity on Kerguelen Islands is scientific research, mostly earth science and biology.

Since 1992, the Centre National d'Études Spatiales (CNES) operates a satellite tracking station located 4km away from Port-aux-Français.

Agriculture is limited to raising some 3500 sheep for local consumption.

The Kerguelen islands form an emerged part of the submerged Kerguelen-Heard tectonic plate, which has a surface area nearing 2.2 million square kilometers. ^[2]

The major part of the volcanic formations visible on the islands are characteristic of an effusive volcanism, which caused a trap rock formation to start emerging above the level of the ocean 35 million years ago. The accumulation is of a considerable amount; basalt flows, each with a thickness of three to ten meters, stack on top of each other, sometimes up to a depth of 1,200 meters. This form of volcanism creates a monumental relief shaped as stairs of pyramids.

Other forms of volcanism are present locally, such as the strombolic volcano Mont Ross, and the volcano-plutonic complex on the Rallier du Baty peninsular. Various veins and extrusions of lava such as trachytes, trachy-phonolites and phonolites are frequent all over the islands.

No eruptive activity has been recorded in historic times, but some fumaroles are still active in the South-West of the Grande-Terre island.

A few lignite strata, trapped in basalt flows, reveal fossilised Araucariaceae fragments, dated at about 14 million years of age.

The Glaciations caused the depression and tipping phenomena which are at the origin of the gulfs at the north and the east of the archipelago. The very pronounced erosion caused by the glacial and fluvial activity, modeled the valleys and fjords and also allowed for the creation of conglomerate detrital complexes, and the plain of the Courbet Peninsula.

The islands are part of a submerged microcontinent called the Kerguelen continent.^[3] The microcontinent existed for three periods between 100 million years ago and 20 million years ago. The so-called Kerguelen continent might have had tropical flora and fauna about 50 million years ago. The Kerguelen continent finally sank 20 million years ago and is now 1 - 2 km below sea level. It has sedimentary rocks similar to the ones found in Australia and India, indicating they were once connected. Scientists hope that studying the Kerguelen continent will help them figure out the break-up of Australia, India and Antarctica.^[4]

See main article: Flora and fauna of the Kerguelen Islands.

• In the seafaring novel Desolation Island, one of the Aubrey–Maturin series by Patrick O'Brian, the crew repairs their disabled ship on an island that strongly resembles Kerguelen, although a later book in the series asserts that it is a different Desolation Island.
• In The Narrative of Arthur Gordon Pym of Nantucket, Edgar Allan Poe's only complete novel, the crew of the Jane Guy alights at Kerguelen Island before eventually pushing on towards the South Pole.
• In Biggles' Second Case by W. E. Johns, Biggles searches for Nazi Gold during World War II on and around Kerguelen.
• Warbots (no. 5) Operation High Dragon involves a secret Chinese military base located on Kerguelen Island. ISBN 1-55817-159-2
• In Gundam - The 08th MS Team, the Zeon Zanzibar-class cruiser used to evacuate Ginias Sakhalin's forces from their base is named Kerguelen.
• In the Danish graphic novel Mikkeline på skattejagt (Mikkeline's Treasure Hunt) by draftsman and cartoonist Claus Deleuran, Desolation Island plays a major role in the plot. In the humorous story the active volcano Mont Ross serves as a back entrance to hell as described in The Divine Comedy by Dante Alighieri. ISBN 87-7378-244-0
• The novel The Lost Flying Boat by Alan Sillitoe is situated around Kerguelen, though the islands' geography are not accurately described.
• The Swedish comic James Hund by Jonas Darnell & Patrik Norrmann has set at least one episode on Kerguelen, where a satanic Nazi conspiracy against the world's leaders has its seat.
• The first chapter of Jules Verne's Le Sphinx des glaces (An Antarctic Mystery) is entitled "Chapitre 1 - Les Îles Kerguelen" ("Chapter 1 - The Kerguelen Islands").
• In Patrick Robinson's Kilo Class (ISBN 0-06-109685-7), naval confrontations arise in the Kerguelen Islands between the Americans, the Chinese, and the Taiwanese.

In the novel An Inexplicable Story by Josef Skvorecky (publ.by Key Porter Books, Toronto,2002),a chapter "A Letter from Herr Rudolf Ceeh" is situated on Kerguelen Islands.It's a report by a German submarine sailor about his stay on the Kerguelens. of the Kerguelens.

• French overseas departments and territories
• Administrative divisions of France
• Islands controlled by France in the Indian and Pacific oceans
• Sub-antarctic islands

• Official site (In French)
• Official site (In French)
• Cartography of the Kerguelen, including a toponymy index (In French)
• Kerguelen Archipelago
• Southern & Antarctic Territories
• Columns about Kerguelen from The Times
• Personal site with a lot of pictures
• Rocket launches on the Kerguelen Islands
• South Atlantic & Subantarctic Islands site, Kerguelen Archipelago page